Saturday, 9 January 2010

Mincing Madness and Mini Scotch Eggs

For Christmas, I bought Pete a cast iron mincer. It was an inexpensive (and rather heavy and large) stocking filler which I bought in a charity sale, boxed and brand new. But I had no idea if would even work let alone work well.

So I was happy to find a recipe that allowed us to test the mincer as well as Michel Roux's Eggs cookery book, recently received for review from Quadrille. Having successfully tried a few recipes from his Sauces book recently, I was really keen to get cooking with eggs.

The first recipe I chose? Scotch Eggs! One of my favourite things and certainly enjoying a renaissance these last few years, with creative versions from The Handmade Scotch Egg Company (who I encountered at the British Cheese Festival back in 2008) and traditional versions on offer in many a pub and restaurant.

Before we could start on the recipe itself we needed to convert our pork shoulder steaks to mince. Enter mincer!



Unfortunately, our work surface proved to be deeper than the mincer's clamp could straddle so instead we clamped the mincer to a chopping board and used a clamp from Pete's toolbox to secure the chopping board to the work surface. Phew! Time to start cranking the handle! The mincer worked like a charm. Quite a faff feeding the meat through, and it took quite a while (not to mention repetitive graft, on Pete's part) but the end result was excellent. Job done!

That completed, we had all our ingredients assembled.

Michel Roux's Mini Scotch Eggs
Ingredients
8 quail's eggs (we did 12)
300 grams pork fillet or shoulder, trimmed and finely minced (we had approximately 350-400 grams minced shoulder steak)
2 teaspoons parsley and chives (we used parsley only)
salt and pepper
small pinch cayenne (we used a large pinch of paprika)
1 egg white + 2 medium eggs (we used 2 large eggs in total)
2 tablespoons milk (we omitted this)
seasoned flour
100 grams white breadcrumbs (we knew our bread was too fresh to make into crumbs so we toasted it before blitzing)
300 ml groundnut oil to fry (we used vegetable oil, not sure how much)

(Adapted) Method


  • We hard-boiled the quail's eggs and peeled them.

  • We mixed the minced pork meat with an egg white, the parsley, salt, pepper and paprika.

  • Dividing the meat mixture into twelve shares we took a portion, flattened it ito a pattie in the palm of a hand, placed an egg into it and gently moulded the meat around the egg.

  • Each egg was liberally floured; infact we double floured them.

  • We beat the second egg with the leftover egg yolk and dipped each floured quail's egg into it and coated it well.

  • The eggs were then liberally (and gently) rolled in breacrumbs.

  • We heated the oil in a small pan. The recipe suggests 180°C but as we didn't use a thermometer we guesstimated. We cooked the eggs in pairs for about 3 minutes rather than the suggested 1.5 to 2 minutes.

  • After letting them drain on a kitchen towel, we ate them still warm.
They were delicious! I particularly liked the fresh parsley in the meat layer and the golden crunch of the breadcrumbs.



In retrospect, mincing the meat by hand before hand meant it took us two hours to make these. Next time I'd buy meat in bulk, mince the same way and freeze for later use.

I'd like the recipe to give more guidance on how much seasoning to use as, although we added what we thought was a generous amount of salt and pepper, the end result was significantly underseasoned (and the large pinch of paprika we used was completely lost). I realise that seasoning is to taste, but really had no clue where to start on this one.

What I did like was how
straightforward the recipe was to follow. Roux has a simple, unpretentious writing style. The recipe worked and it gave us the confidence to make something we've never made before!

I'll be trying (and sharing) some more recipes from this book in coming blog posts!



Michel Roux's "Eggs", published by Quadrille, is priced at £9.99 but is currently available from Amazon (at date of posting) for just £6.46 (for the paperback edition).

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Wednesday, 6 January 2010

The First Rule About Steak Club...

... is that I can't go to steak club!

A comment I made on twitter about feeling like the only food blogger yet to enjoy the legendary steak and burgers at Hawksmoor restaurant in London lead to a flurry of tweets from fellow carnivore friends suggesting we go together. Result and happiness on my part! The suggestion of a girls steak club quickly took off and many excited wimmins eager to share the beef chimed in.

Sadly, in the ensuing rush to make this into a reality, a date was picked that I could not attend. Learning of this on a day when I was already very close to tears (thanks to paypal and ebay, who I hate with a true and fierce passion) lead to the embarassment of my crying actual tears, just because I couldn't go! Behaviour quite unbecoming of a 38 year old, even one who loves her steak!

Cue gallant behaviour from (no doubt slightly bewildered) husband who suggested he'd take me instead and we'd have our very own steak club!


Having just started a glorious three month sabbatical from work we took advantage of our freedom to make a weekday lunch time visit, driving into the city and finding a pay and display parking space virtually opposite the restaurant. Great start!


Our lovely waitress took our drinks orders, responding well to my nondescript request for a non-alcoholic cocktail, "something sweet". Quick, targetted questions helped elicit my eventual request for raspberry and mint and she had the barman make me a virgin raspberry mojito which absolutely hit the spot! Pete went for a Meantime Pale Ale, which he enjoyed though felt was served too cold.

Reluctantly, but sensibly given the meatfeast to come, we eschewed starters and went straight to the main event.


Pete opted for the famous Hawksmoor burger. A real burger lover, he confirmed that the (very generous) pattie was incredibly moist and tender, wonderfully beefy and perfectly balanced by the lettuce, tomato, gherkins and red onions. He was pleased with his choice of ogleshield cheese too. The accompanying chips were nice, though nothing to write home about.

I was permitted a bite of the burger and was duly impressed, even after all the hype! Yes, it really is a very tasty burger!


I chose a 400 gram (gulp) rib-eye steak, medium rare. And some grilled marrow bone, because I love it. And a side of buttered spinach. To my delight, a little bowl of bearnaise was also provided - tasty but would have been nicer warm. Far too much meat for me, but I gave it a good effort and enjoyed what I managed to eat immensely. A nice texture and great flavour, and deftly cooked. All one wants from a piece of beef!


Full beyond belief we nevertheless could not resist the allure of the Victorian apple and blackberry trifle. Spiked with brandy and topped off with scrumpy cider ice, it was refreshingly light and the perfect thing with which to round off our meal!

I was also delighted to be able to catch up with owner Will Beckett, who I'd been wanting to meet for ages, having met fellow owner Huw Gott at the Blaggers Banquet! Will's dry humour on twitter often has me smiling and he made us very welcome at Hawksmoor.

I'm looking forward to confirmation of their second restaurant in the West End. Apparently, they've found the premises but won't say a word until the paperwork is all signed!

In other news, why not join the ranks demanding weekend burger goodness at their original branch?!
Hawksmoor on Urbanspoon

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Saturday, 2 January 2010

Kavey’s Chicken Liver & Port Paté

Chicken liver paté is one of my favourite things... and yet, a couple of years ago, I'd never made it myself.

A friend was kind enough to share his recipe for chicken liver and brandy paté which I duly made and enjoyed. It was very straightforward and inexpensive too! Having gained the confidence to experiment I adjusted the recipe and adjusted it again and with a final tweak or two, came up with my own.

Mine has rather a lot more alcohol than my friend's original recipe, so you may wish to add it gradually, the first time you make it, incase you prefer less! Likewise with the garlic.

This is a great make-ahead starter or light lunch and works well served with toasted, home-made bread or brioche and some sweet chutney.



Kavey’s Chicken Liver & Port Paté
Ingredients
• 400 grams chicken livers
• 150 grams butter
• 1 medium to large onion; diced or finely sliced
• Thyme; fresh or dried, to taste.
• 5-6 cloves garlic; roughly chopped or crushed
• Salt & pepper
• 100 ml port
Optional
• Clarified butter; to cover
• Replace 50 gm butter with 50 gm double cream

Method
1. Chop the onion and garlic finely and soften in about 1/4 of the butter until just starting to colour.
2. Add the livers, thyme and seasoning and fry together over reasonably high heat for about 3 minute until the livers have stiffened and browned. They should be pale pink inside but no dark (raw) pink should remain.
3. Leave to cool.
4. Tip the contents of the pan (including any melted butter/ juices) into a food processor and blend.
5. Once you have achieved a smooth paste add the rest of the butter (and the cream, if using) and blend again.
6. Add the port, check the seasoning and blend once more to combine.
7. Then pour into a large, shallow dish or individual ramekins.
8. Tap the pots gently to free bubbles and leave to cool.
9. Optional: Clarify some butter (melt and remove impurities) before pouring or spooning very gently over the surface of the paté, to a depth of about 3 mm.
10. Refrigerate overnight.
11. Serve, from the fridge, with toasted bread or brioche and a sweet jam or chutney.



Notes
• This paté needs to overnight in the fridge before serving. It's too runny on the day it's made.
• Even after a night in the fridge, this is a soft, spreadable paté; not the terrine kind you can cut into slices and lift out of the dish. For that reason, I make it in a large, shallow dish for an informal dinner, where everyone dives in and spoons a dollop into their own plates or in individual ramekins for a more formal presentation.
• If the surface is covered in butter, it will last a few days in the fridge.
• It freezes very well, just allow it to defrost for several hours in the fridge.

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Tuesday, 29 December 2009

A Fond Farewell to 2009!

I had all kinds of posts planned for the last couple of weeks of the year:-

  • I had such a great response to my twitter survey on which foods and drinks people were most and least looking forward to over the Christmas period that I had decided to share some with you.
  • I thought I'd join in with those journalists and bloggers providing lists of their favourite cookery books of the year.
  • And of course, I wanted to cook and share some more festive recipes with you before the year was out.
Instead, I've been struck down by yet another cough/cold lurgie which has rendered this Christmas a bit of a wash out! Ma, thank for getting that lovely, lovely boned rib of beef for Christmas, sorry I couldn't eat more than a few bites, but I did manage some of the leftovers you sent us home with, thank you!



Which is my excuse for not posting any of those ideas, above...

So what shall I do to see out 2009 - the year I joined the mushrooming ranks of food bloggers?

Review my year in food, via my blog posts, that's what! Whilst sharing a few photos from our recent trip to Lapland!



(Although I didn't start the blog until April, I copied over content I'd shared in my personal blog as well as reviews I'd shared via email or in food discussion boards, hence the archive of older content).

February
In my first post dated for 2009 I shared my favourite banana bread recipe - thank you Mr Charles Campion. A moist, gooey affair, this is far more cake than bread which is just as I like it!

I also posted a review of the lovely La Trompette restaurant in Chiswick.

March
Not long afterwards, I visited sister restaurant Glasshouse, in Kew Gardens, also very good.

I also attended the filming of Market Kitchen, an interesting experience, not at all how I'd imagined it! I went once more, later in the year, to see some different chefs and presenters.

April
I'd idly thought about starting a food blog many times over the years, having enjoyed reading many of the earliest ones for so long. Somehow, attending the Guardian Word of Mouth blog's Chocolate Tasting Event proved to be the catalyst and I began creating the blog on getting home that evening, tweaking the formatting and copying across the archival content the next day.

With the zeal of a newbie, that first month was prolific!

I posted recipes for hot cross buns and real fast stroganov.

I visited and reviewed Oliver Rowe's Konstam restaurant.

I eulogised the alphonso mango.

I fell further in love with Paul A Young's chocolates.

And I got to grips with a slow cooker, since when we've made home-made stock far more often (and more easily) than ever before.



May
As May came around my sister and I made The Cookies of Dreams for the first (but not last) time.

Twitter friends helped me choose a boston baked beans recipe for pork belly slices.

I shared Pete's cheesey potato bake - such a simple recipe and yet so incredibly delicious and comforting and fantastic!

A tale of two crumbles closed the month of May.

June
Having a blog - even a small, recently created one such as mine - helped open doors. The first of which were those of the new Artisan du Chocolat store in Westbourne Grove.

I thought it about time I told my readers a little more about myself. The Wonder Years was the first installment.

By June I was really enjoying meeting wonderful new friends in the world of food (both fellow bloggers and the wider food industry).

As summer rolled in we enjoyed eating more and more garden bounties.

July
In July I discovered the great affinity of coriander and mango!

We continued to enjoy eating lovely produce from our garden.

And my mum and cousin helped me make vast quantities of pickles, chutneys, ketchups and jams in readiness for my one-off market stall the following month.



August
I finally shared the second part of the "who am I?" posts.

And I enjoyed some very fine cheese!

The rest of the month was spent preparing for the big day at Covent Garden and enjoying a week's holiday in Dorset.

September
And, once I'd recovered, I shared our experiences of hosting a market stall at Covent Garden's Real Food Market.

In Dorset, I'd had the pleasure of meeting and interviewing Mat Follas, winner of Masterchef 2009, at his new restaurant, The Wild Garlic, which we then visited for dinner with friends.

I attended a photography workshop at the Scandinavian Kitchen.

Pete and I had a marvellous weekend in Bristol including a really fine meal at Bell's Diner.



October
October's excitement in the food world was for Pierre Koffman's pop up restaurant - I was lucky enough to visit for the first lunch on the first day of opening (and again a few weeks later).

My sister and I celebrated our (shared) birthday with a lovely evening at Jun Tanaka's Pearl restaurant.

I met one of my favourite food bloggers for lunch at Leong's Legend.

I realised that I'd developed a bit of an obsession with preserving - making even more jams and chutneys (and I didn't even blog the spicy tomato ketchups I made more than one batch of!).

I spent a week on a photography course in Inzigkofen, Germany and shared this tragic romantic story.

I had a really most fantastic evening with Paul A Young - charming, passionate, sweet and funny.

And I became involved in the Blaggers Banquet through which food bloggers raised money for Action Against Hunger.



November
In November I fell for Paganum - their meat that is! Here's a recipe for boneless leg of lamb braised in red wine and garlic and how about some curried beef marrow bone?

I reviewed some cookbooks including The Ultimate Student Cookbook and Michel Roux's Sauces.

I found out more about organic versus free range chicken with a fun (but yes, statistically irrelevant) taste test.

The main night for the Blaggers Banquet came and went and was rather splendid (after which I invested a shocking number of hours during the next several weeks running the online auction and payments phase of the fundraiser).

I had fun participating in a christmas pudding cookery competition, creating a home-made custard-based ice-cream with chunks of Christmas pudding that came out better than I'd dared to hope for.

And I recommended some fine tea gifts for Christmas lovers.

December
It may have taken a few months but I was finally able to cook for my friend, Daisy (better known as Dan from FoodUrchin) for his Where's My Pork Chop? project.

I was thrilled to be able to learn about Fair Trade from Divine Chocolates. I went on to use their chocolate in a fantastic stem ginger & chocolate chunk cake recipe from their own book as well as my own Cookies of Dreams recipe (which worked fantastically well).

Pete and I found another great way to use leftover roast chicken in these nifty croquettes.

And I ended the year with my face on a box of Jordan's Country Crisp Cereal!



I also wanted to tell you how very, very much I have appreciated the wonderful comments left by friends and strangers alike. Thank you for visiting and reading and especially for taking the time to let me know you're here.

Wishing all of you the very best for 2010!

Kavey

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Friday, 18 December 2009

Kavey Country Crisp Cereal!

Serial Cereal Eater!

When it comes to cereal I'm a creature of habit! I flit between three favourites like a serial trigamist!

My sister and I developed such an addiction to General Mills Lucky Charms, during frequent childhood visits to family in Florida, that we would bring back boxes upon boxes in our suitcases. And woebetide any Florida relative who dared to visit us in the UK without bringing some over! "Magically delicious", says the Lucky Charms leprechaun. It certainly is! Of course, I don't get to enjoy this American cereal very often, here in the UK.

Kellogg's Crunchy Nut is, as their marketing slogan so insistently declares, "ludicrously tasty"! Crunchy nuts and sweet honey adhering to corn flakes of deliciousness. Even the most lacklustre of hotel breakfast buffets can redeem themselves by having some Crunchy Nut on offer! I love the taste of the cold milk, towards the bottom of the bowl, after the flavours of the cereal has infused into it!

After a night of strange alcoholic concoctions at a friend's party a few years ago, I raided his kitchen cupboards for breakfast and discovered a bag of Jordan's Original (now called Crunchy Oats). I was immediately hooked and can't begin to tell you how many bags of the comfortingly solid clusters of sweet, crunchy, generously raisined cereal I've munched my way through since then! As this cereal makes a good snack without milk it's doubly handy to have in the cupboard!

Occasionally I'll philander with other options - a generously-fruited muesli, a thick, warming porridge or naughty Cinammon Grahams (now called Curiously Cinammon) but these flirtations seldom last long and I quickly return to my true loves.


Leith's Cookery School

So when I was invited to the Jordan's Country Crisp Appreciation Society food bloggers event, to be held at Leith's Cookery School, organised by PR company Wild Card, I could not resist! How would their Crispy Crunch compare to their Original/ Crunchy Oats?!


The team preparing ingredients for the cookery session

The pounding head, bloodshot eyes and woolly thinking hangover symptoms from the previous night's work Christmas party could not dampen my enthusiasm. Despite the early start, I was the first to arrive at the cookery school (what a shame that Leith's have moved away from central London and out into the boonies, west of Shepherd's Bush). With a very welcome coffee in hand (and headache pills quickly swallowed) I watched the Wild Card and Jordan's team prepare for the event, weighing out ingredients for the recipe we'd be making together and arranging each blogger's cooking station with everything we'd need.

A quiet moment; the film maker

I also took the opportunity to take some early photos (including one of the guy filming the event) and soon enough, my fellow bloggers arrived.


Food Urchin

Jordan's Cereal - Past and Present

After an introduction from Rachel, Jordans' Brand Communications Manager, we heard from Bill Jordan who told us a little about this family business and how they came to develop their original Crunchy Oats cereals and, more recently, the Country Crisp range.


Bill Jordan's talk

The family had been in the milling business for over 150 years but it wasn't until 1972 that they branched out into the world of cereal. Having spent some years travelling the world and playing in a rock & blues band, Bill finally made it home and asked his brother David to join with him to launch the cereal business. Looking West for inspiration they brought what the Americans call granola to the UK market. That was their first cereal and it went down well; the range has expanded considerably since then.

Happy with the popularity of the early products, Jordan's have kept a careful eye on the changing tastes of the consumer which has lead to their Country Crisp range, a lighter cereal than the orginal granola. They've also introduced lots of new ingredients from morello cherries to pumpkin seeds, from mango and papaya to flame raisins, from cashew nuts to pecans.

Talking about new flavours, Bill pointed out that sometimes the ingredients you think will work well, such as peaches, really don't! So it's a huge amount of trial and error and fine tuning for each product.

Referring to the Chocolate Country Crisp, "I'm a bit of a luddite" he exclaimed, and found the idea of chocolate in cereal quite strange! But went on to explain that chocolate is a popular breakfast ingredient in France and repeated requests from their French customers, who account for 25% of the company's sales, encouraged Jordans to bring out this Country Crisp flavour.


Conservation Grade

Bill also told us that the cereal itself is all grown to Conservation Grade which means that all 50,000 acres, farmed by more than 50 farmers, are managed to encourage biodiversity - planting wildflowers, clover and other plants to provide pollen, nectar and food for insects and birds, providing grassland habitat that will shelter spiders, beetles and small mammals and supporting wildlife by retaining hedges, ditches, old barns, ponds and woodland. I'm very supportive of any initiatives that encourage the conservation and protection of wildlife so was particularly pleased to learn about this (and have visited the Conservation Grade website to learn more).


Cereal Cakes

Before too long we each took our place at one of the cooking stations and got to work on making the pear cake recipe we'd been provided. All the ingredients had been weighed out ready and Nishita from Wild Card even buttered our cake tins for us, as we got to peeling and slicing our pears.



Bloggers at work

I looked on enviously as Ginger Gourmand quickly produced thin, even slices of pear whilst my pear slid an unceremonious dance around my chopping board - luckily she showed me what I was doing wrong and my pears were quickly reduced to (messy) slivers.


Still at work

We cooked the pear in butter and sugar on the cookers around the edge of the room before returning to our stations and making up our cake mixes. Failing to achieve smoothness whether I employed the electric whisk or a wooden spoon, I decided not to worry too much the lumps in my cake batter! I poured it into the cake tin, scattered over some Country Crisp cereal, topped it messily with the pear slices (eating a few as I went) and then threw on more cereal (as per the recipe). Another glance over to Ginger Gourmand's beautifully fanned pear layer, Greedy Diva's smooth batter and Food Urchin's artistic cereal scattering made me realise I'd never win any awards for baking finesse! Still, I did find some extra chocolate curls to sprinkle over mine, so at least it would have the honour of being the most chocolatey!



Cakes, before and after baking

As we cooked, Bill Jordan hopped around the room, gleefully shouting out how much time we had remaining à la Ready Steady Cook! Sadly, he had to leave before the cakes were cooked, so didn't get to taste them!


Product Development

Cakes into the oven, we gathered around to learn about the complexities of developing the Country Crisp range from Kirsten Hoskisson, the Head of Taste at Jordans Cereals.


Kirsten's talk

Having developed and delivered training for a food product development tool used by one of the main supermarket chains a few years ago, I had a good idea of how much effort goes into perfecting a recipe – lots of trial and error, refinement after refinement, taste test after taste test. But still it was interesting to listen to Kirsten's explanations of how they developed Country Crisp.

The aim was to produce a much lighter cereal than the traditional granola range. She included different varieties and sizes of oats from powdery small ones that help the cereal to bind, to larger ones that provide crispness. She experimented with cluster size, deciding that a combination of sizes gives the best eating experience – they sieve to ensure the specified mix of cluster sizes in each batch. She threw in rice flour which puffs up into sticky crescent shapes to which the oats bind and added some barley which helps give a creamy texture as well as a little astringency to balance the sweetness. Eventually, Kirsten created three different bases that are used across the Country Crisp range - known as nutty, vanilla and honey. All three include hazelnut and coconut plus the addition of almond, vanilla and honey, respectively.

Of course, as well as ensuring the crispy base was just right, it took a lot of experimentation to decide on the extra ingredients from freeze dried fruits to chopped nuts to seeds to chocolate. And not just a matter of finding the right tastes but chopping them into different sizes and shapes to create the correct balance – the chocolate is in curls, for example, because this melts quickly in the mouth whereas chips would give a hard bite. On a similar note to Bill's comment about peaches, she said they'd been sure they were on to a winner with dried banana, and the taste tests went well. But the final feedback was that, whilst consumers liked the taste, they'd probably not buy it given how easy it is to slice fresh bananas into their cereal bowls!


Country Crisp ingredients

As Kirsten talked bowls of the various Country Crisp cereals were passed around for us to munch and we darted forward to taste the ingredients in the various bowls in front of her.


Kavey Country Crisp

And then the bit I'd most been looking forward to – making my own cereal mix! With a large stainless steel bowl in our hands, first we scooped up generous servings of the base clusters before adding in our personal choices of fruit, nuts and seeds. I am a greedy, greedy glutton so mine had an exceedingly generous amount of dried strawberries, dried raspberries, dark chocolate curls and huge, delicious Chilean flame raisins!



Making our own cereal mixes

We proudly transferred our creations into sealable plastic baggies before being presented with our personalised Country Crisp cereal boxes to put them into! Fantastic!


Kavey Country Crisp


And some of the others...

Finally, it was time to taste the cereals, a very welcome breakfast as the cooking smells had made us all hungry!


Breakfast time!

All to soon, the session came to an end and it was time to make our way home, weighed down with our steaming hot cakes (popped out of the oven, allowed to cool for a few minutes and transferred into takeaway boxes), our personalised cereal plus a few other cereals from the Country Crisp range! A huge thank you to Jordans and Wild Card for such a fun morning!


Competition

So what did it say on my cereal box? "Kavey Favelle is a chunky nutster with a warm heart and juicy fruit clusters!"

Cringe-worthy and embarassing, yes, but you try and come up with a short character description of yourself that ties in to the Country Crisp cereal range! It's harder than it looks!

I'll send a box of Country Crisp Chocolate out (mainland UK only) to the best Country Crisp character description (of yourself) left as a comment by midnight December 31st. (Note: this will be a regular box, not a special edition one).

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