Tuesday, 19 December 2006

Restaurant Review: The Hoxton Apprentice, London

Had a lovely evening at The Hoxton Apprentice restaurant last night with four of my girlfriends - we try and meet once a month for dinner and it was my turn to choose. As the others were booked in to tour Dennis Severs' House before dinner (I didn't fancy it) I wanted to find something reasonably close by.

The Hoxton Apprentice is a charitable community project and exists to provide life training for the long term unexployed of the area. The idea is to provide vocational skills not just to chefs (as in Jamie Oliver's Fifteen) but also to front-of-house staff such as waiters, cocktail bar staff, manager training etc.

The menu is fairly straightforward and the prices are reasonably low for this kind of fare in this area. Of course, that's because you may encounter some problems in food and service from the trainees.

The restaurant itself is in a lovely building with really high ceilings, painted brick walls, old style radiatiors and lovely furniture/ decor. I think the building used to be a school and most of it still is an educational building.

Our waiter was extremely friendly though he did make a lot of errors. Having very slowly written down our order we asked him to repeat it back as we had a feeling he may have miswritten it. He had made a few mistakes plus missed out a dish but eventually we were happy that he had all 5 starters and all 5 mains.

4 of us went for the same main dish, Venison with savoy cabbage. As it didn't list any other vegetable we ordered some side dishes of mash potato.

A while later our waiter came over and said that the dish came with mash potato and did we still want the extra side orders. We said, no, if that was the case, we didn't. He looked a bit lost and said that he'd already put them through now but we (very politely) asked for them to be removed as we'd ordered them only because of the incomplete menu descriptions.

That was fine.

Starters arrived and mine was missing. I eventually was able to call him over to ask where it was and he went to the kitchen to check. In the meantime one of the girls who'd ordered the same thing (a risotto) split hers into two portions (it was a huge serving) and gave half to me. By the time he came back he explained he'd managed not to put one of the orders into the system. It would be quite a while before they could cook another one so I decided to leave it and he went back to update the order as he'd just corrected it!

Oh, before the soups for the others came out the soup eaters were asked if they wanted some bread with it. Although they took their time eating the soups the bread came out a long time after they had finished eating them! Oh well! They were lovely breads served with some olive oil and roasted garlic.

Our waiter was hugely apologetic and as we knew he was a trainee and was a warm individual clearly doing his best we did tell him not to worry about it at all. As far as we were concerned, this is the point of this place - to support the training of those who might not normally have this opportunity.

The butternut squash soup was delicious and so too was the red wine and mushroom risotto.

Mains were lovely (though one of the girls asked for a really overcooked portion against the three of us asking for pink). Despite asking as they were served, they were served the wrong way round. The other dish was a generous sausage and mash.

Once we'd swapped the venisons around we all really enjoyed the meals. Very well cooked, flavoursome, good quality ingredients.

For dessert we had two lemon rice puddings, one chocolate mousse with sea salt caramel ice cream and one grilled pineapple with rosemary sorbet.

The rice puddings were delicious, though huge portions and not very lemony at all. Very moreish though! The pineapple and sorbet were nice too. I'd ordered the chocolate mousse mainly for the sea salt caramel ice cream after checking that it was available (he'd told us the other ice creams on the menu weren't available) and was disappointed to find out only on being served that the ice cream had been replaced with coffee ice cream instead - had I known that I'd have ordered something else and just as well I'm not allergic to coffee. Somewhere else I might have sent it back but I decided not to here as I knew our waiter was nervous after the previous errors and keen to get everything else right.

When our bill came it had a number of mistakes on it. A single glass of wine (ordered and served correctly) was listed as a full bottle on the bill. And we had 6 mains of Venison plus the sausage and mash dish though there were only five of us! After getting that corrected we all put our cards in to pay an even split of the bill.

I very nearly paid 10 times as much as I should have when the waiter miskeyed the amount but he was able to void that transaction before it went through. Lucky I noticed though!

As we hadn't been drinking (the glass of wine was literally the only alcohol ordered) the bill was very reasonable at 22.50 per person including the service.

Despite the problems with errors in orders and the like we all said we'd consider returning to this restaurant as we did like the ambience, the decor, the friendlines and warmth of the service, the food and the concept itself.

Hoxton Apprentice on Urbanspoon


Friday, 1 December 2006

Restaurant Review: Zaika Restaurant, High Street Kensington, London

Last night I had the pleasure of being taken out by a friend to Zaika Restaurant in High Street Kensington (London).

Zaika is a modern and stylish restaurant offering Indian fusion cuisine –offering both reworked traditional classics and original dishes blending eastern and western flavours.

On opening in 1999 the restaurant garnered very positive reviews from many restaurant critics as well earning a number of impressive accolades including Best Indian Restaurant in the 2000 London Restaurant Awards, three AA rosettes and high praise from guides such as Time Out, Zagat and Good Food. Even more impressive in my eyes, with chef Vineet Bhatia at the helm the restaurant earned a coveted Michelin star – one of only two Indian restaurants in the UK to do so at that time.

Now that chef Sanjay Dwivedi, involved in Zaika since it’s opening, is in charge of the kitchen, the question on my lips was whether Zaika was still as good as those earlier awards and reviews suggested?

From the moment I walked in to the airy, high-ceilinged restaurant, full of wonderful architectural details, sumptuous and elegant décor and smiling staff I had high hopes of a special evening.

My friend and I started our evening in the bar and once I’d communicated my order to the barman (who had difficulties recognising the name of a cocktail listed on the menu he’d just given me) I was served a well-balanced raspberry mojito. After a while we asked to be taken to our table; a member of staff transferred our drinks whilst we settled in.

Having both looked at the menus on Zaika’s website in advance of our visit we swiftly ordered two Zaika Gourmand tasting menus; my friend adding on the suggested accompanying wines.

With nine courses they didn’t bother with any unexpected amuse-bouches and we kicked off with a rich, creamy and steaming shot of crab and coconut milk “shorba” served in a miniature lidded mug. Some small, black caviar was scattered on top of the lid and on top of that was a batter-coated ball pierced with a cocktail stick. This fairly bland pakora was presumably the crab dumpling mentioned in the menu. I had some trouble working out how best to eat the caviar and resorted to scraping it, unelegantly, off the lid with a finger! The soup was absolutely delicious but the flavours seemed much more Thai than Indian to me. Still, it was a great start with it’s unusual presentation and intriguing combination of flavours, textures and ingredients.

The second course was also a winner with both of us; the wild mushroom and truffle samosa was enclosed in an impeccably crisped filo casing; the filling was generously indulgent; accompaniments were a pear and celeriac mash scattered with slices of truffle and a sweet pear and clove chutney that cut through the mustiness of the truffle very nicely.

Scallops, cooked with a light touch and interestingly presented, are one of my favourite things to eat so the third course didn’t disappoint. Both were cooked beautifully – touches of caramel on the outside and meltingly tender inside. One was served on a bed of puree that was introduced as chilli mash (though I couldn’t detect the heat of the chilli) and squirted at the table with a bright yellow lime leaf “foam”. The squirter was very Heston Blumenthal and the foam was more of a sauce but the coconut and lime flavour certainly enhanced the sweetness of the scallop. Incidentally, the scallop had apparently been poached in “kokum” – an ingredient I’d never encountered or heard of; a little research shows me that it’s a spice mainly used in the western coastal regions of southern India, that it’s actually a dark purple fruit related to mangosteen, is usually picked when ripe, has it’s thick rind removed and dried and is used to impart a slightly sour taste, similar to tamarind. I can’t say I detected any sourness myself. The second scallop had sesame and onion seeds pressed into one side before being seared and was served on a bed of tiny couscous bound by black squid ink. On top of the scallop was a tiny dot of green chutney. The couscous was quite mild and a really interesting texture. On being served I’d wondered if the mixed seeds would overpower the scallop but was pleased to find they too enhanced it’s sweetness and the chutney provided a burst of fresh coriander which was very welcome. Definitely one of my two favourite courses of the meal.

Course number four was a tandoori sampler with a succulent slice of tandoori salmon, a single tandoori king prawn and a small salad. The king prawn was pleasant enough though a touch dry even with the zig zags of green chutney beneath it and I couldn’t detect the rosemary or ginger it had been marinated in. The mixed leaf and afalfa sprout salad was more popular with my friend but then I’m not a fan of sprouts. The salmon’s sweet, thick honey-mustard marinade made it the strongest item of the three and I really loved the puddle of cucumber and dill raita beneath it.

(Please excuse the poor quality of the photos; they were taken on my mobile phone!)

I’d been anticipating the fifth course ever since I saw it listed on the website and it didn’t let me down; pan-fried fresh foie gras dusted with spices and cooked so perfectly that it really did melt in the mouth; served with wild mushrooms over a moist little circle of naan bread covered in chopped green herbs and oil. I found the dollop of mango chutney to the side much too strong and syrupy to complement the foie gras; it seemed like a unecessary interloper on a plate that was perfectly composed without it. To my surprise the Indian spices really did fuse well with the flavour of the foie gras and this, with the exception of the cloying chutney, was my other joint-favourite dish of the meal.

Both my companion and I felt that the dishes went a little down-hill from this point though that doesn’t mean they were without any merit. We still enjoyed some wonderful flavours in the remaining four courses.

Next on the menu was the tandoori lobster, another dish I’d been looking forward to given my love of it’s main ingredient. But, as I should perhaps have expected, the strong Indian spices disguised the subtle flavour of this luscious crustacean. The lobster was served on a shaped bed of cauliflower and curry leaf rice with a healthy pool of thick, ochre sauce. Unfortunately the sauce contained one pungent flavour that I just couldn’t bear and scraping the sauce off the lobster didn’t help. The menu description mentioned sour spices and cocoa (the latter was dusted over the dish after it had been brought to the table, though I couldn’t detect it). Curious about the ingredient I was finding so offensive I asked our waitress what spice was used to impart the sour taste. She went to ask the chef and came back with a response of saffron, brandy and cardamom but none of these are particularly sour and I know I like all of them. My best guesses on the mystery flavour would be fenugreekor tamarind but I’m not sure at all. My friend didn’t have any aversion to this dish though she didn’t find it special either.

Our next dish seemed to be the main one as it came with (shared) rice and naan bread. Both of us were served individual dishes containing lamb, butter chicken and cumin spinach. I’m not sure whether the lamb was actually the nariyal ka gosht described on our menu, cooked in coconut milk, mustard seeds and curry leaves, or the rogan josh, listed in the regular menu, cooked in a rich onion & tomato sauce. Certainly the two flavours that stood out were tomato and ginger rather than coconut. Either way, it was tender, well-flavoured and enjoyable. The butter chicken was the most pedestrian dish of the entire meal for me and better left to the local curry house; certainly nothing innovative or distinctive about it. The spinach consisted of large wilted leaves rather than the more finely-chopped Indian standard and tasted more strongly of garlic than cumin. The naan bread was light and managed to be moist and crispy at the same time. The winning dish from this course for both of us was the rice which was mouthwatering. Certain that we could taste something dainty, perfumed and floral in amongst the saffron we asked our waitress to tell us more about it’s preparation. The chef sent a reply admitting only to milk, cardamom and saffron but both of us are determined to try a few drops of rose water or kewra essence (made from pandanus flowers) in our rice next time we cook up an Indian feast!

Overall neither of us felt this last dish really fit in with the earlier part of the menu with it’s more innovative, fusion flair. Certainly we didn’t need it in terms of hunger as we were very satisfied already and it seemed to pander overly to those expecting the standard curry house fare.

At this point we took a break and headed to the bar for a breather. The restaurant had filled up and was rather too warm and we appreciated the cooler air nearer to the door. On our return to the table we were served small glasses of “lychee granite” over which champagne was liberally poured. Pushing aside thoughts of marble worktops, I was surprised at how successful the lychee and champagne combination was and I found the chunky textured ice of the granité more interesting than a straightforward sorbet and just as refreshing.

The dessert finalé was a bit of a let down after the deft touch shown in so many of the courses that preceded it and I don’t think this was wholly down to our already feeling quite full. We were each served a plate with several sweets presented on it. The large pot of rose water and vanilla crème brulée was too sweet even for my exceedingly sweet tooth and I couldn’t make out the rose flavouring at all. A huge chocolate slab was billed as a “silk” with mentions of pistachios, pine kernels and cashew nuts but again, the chocolate was overly sweet and it reminded me of the cheaply-produced brownie I’d bought from a train station coffee shop that same morning. The chunk of pineapple marinated in saffron and blasted in the tandoori oven was served over a bed of “pineapple halva” which I liked very much - here at last was an innovative fusion of traditional semolina-based halva with a new pineapple twist. Most popular with both of us was the rose petal kulfi in which one could easily find whole, slightly crunchy petals smothered in the creamy pink ice-cream. A small pile of finely diced fresh mango and strawberry completed the dessert plate, most of which we left unfinished.

My friend’s comment on the 6 wines that were chosen to accompany this set menu was that whilst they were perfectly acceptable and reasonably priced for a restaurant of this calibre, none stood out either as exceptionally strong or poor choices for their partner dish. Servings of each were quite small which suited my friend but might disappoint someone expecting standard servings of the reds and whites. Champagne and dessert wine servings were more standard in size.

Most of the staff are friendly and helpful though our main waitress was difficult to understand (both due to her quiet speaking voice and strong accent) as well as quite reluctant to elaborate on what we were eating beyond the basic stock description given on the point of serving. A smile wouldn’t go amiss either. Our main waiter was both friendlier and more accommodating and also seemed more knowledgeable and we also had a friendly visit from General Manager, Luigi Gaudino.

Overall, we both enjoyed the meal very much and agreed that the first half of the menu was by far the most enjoyable, exciting, innovative and appealing. If we come again, and we’d both like to do so, we’ll probably ask in advance whether a menu based on the starters only can be arranged or perhaps order from the a la carte menu, though many of the gems we enjoyed are missing from it’s pages.

Zaika on Urbanspoon


Tuesday, 22 August 2006

Our Mamta's Kitchen Feast!

I know that as a keen cook's daughter people might assume that I'd naturally be able to recreate all my mum's delicious Indian recipes and that I grew up cooking Indian food at her apron strings.

But I have to confess that while both my sister and I grew up learning to cook from both mum and school (which we enjoyed and did cook quite a bit) we never really learned any of her traditional Indian recipes! We cooked cakes, breads, recipes from the UK and all around the world, particularly Chinese, Italian, Greek, French... but seldom Indian!

That's how the (Mamta's Kitchen) website started actually back in 2001. Neeta and I asked mum to write down all our favourite family recipes because we really felt we should know them too and ensure that they were written down. Mum cooks by instinct and had none of them written down.

So she started out by writing them by hand on cards, each recipe written on two cards, one for each of us. And then one of my cousins who moved from India to Europe asked if he could have a copy too. And then mum's brother suggested putting them onto a website so all of the family could access them and contribute additional ones too.

Since Pete and I were already working in IT, including web design, mum asked us to create a site but we put her off and put her off. Eventually her brother created a site. I think he deliberately made it as ugly as possible (I'm sure he'll forgive me since I do adore him) so that the second Pete and I saw it we'd change our minds and offer to do a site after all! Well it worked and we created Mamta's Kitchen.

I remember at first how hard it was getting mum to write down her recipes with realistic quantities. She'd write down "a pinch" and I'd be standing next to her watching her throw in a tablespoon! But she's a very fast learner, my mum and she quickly got into a new habit of accurately measuring and describing everything. Every now and then people still find little confusions or errors in early recipes and kindly let us know via the forums or email. Mum always welcomes comments, corrections and suggestions!

Of course, we really never expected or intended for it to become a site that the public visited - it was created for the family. But fairly quickly we started getting visitors from all over the world! Numbers really went up when the BBC Web Guide staff hand picked it to be in their recommended websites listings. And these days we get 15,000 to 20,000 visitors a month. Of course we've revamped the site a lot since it first launched and mum's added so much more content.

So... once in a blue moon Pete and I decide to cook some Indian food and resort to the site just like many of our visitors.

On Saturday we'd arranged to go to a friend's for dinner. We always go to her place - it's spacious, beautiful and well located for the various members of our little gang to get to but we felt we ought to take a turn in the cooking. So on Friday and Saturday we cooked lots of dishes ready to take, heat and serve!!!

We did:

Shahi Paneer 1 (which is so delicious I cannot tell you and btw the big Tesco in Watford currently stocks the exact spice mix recommended by the author of the recipe though they are apparently discontinuing it soon so if you want some, go buy it now).

Aloo Matar (potatoes and peas curry which is a good basic curry with a nice tomatoey gravy)

I marinaded a kilo of fresh salmon in a tandoori marinade overnight which we cooked at my friend's house tandoori style, in a very hot oven, just before serving.

Green apple/ mango chutney
(using an apple) not because it goes with anything but because I adore it.

We also did a cucumber, red onion and mint raita

And Pete made some fresh naan bread.

Oh and I popped into a local Indian sweet mart to buy some rasmalai, freshly made jalebis (he let me taste one in the shop and it was still hot) and some ludos!



Monday, 14 August 2006

A lovely foodie Sunday!

For breakfast Pete baked frozen croissants and pains au chocolat - there's a farm shop not too far from us that sells properly made ones that have been frozen at the pre-rising stage. He just gets them out the night before, leaves them out to rise and bakes them the next day! YUM!

For lunch he baked a couple of home-made baguettes (yes, made from scratch) and made his fabulous french onion soup (also from scratch) which we had with some grated gruyere cheese we'd brought back from France last year and still had in the freezer - because it's grated it thaws as you drop the grated fragments into something hot like soup so you don't need to defrost it before use.

In the afternoon Pete made a wonderful lemon drizzle cake. I'd seen the recipe in a magazine on Friday and mentioned how delicious it looked. So he decided to cook it! :D The sponge itself was a normal sponge recipe with the addition of lots of lemon zest (I did lots of zesting). The filling was home-made lemon curd mixed with mascarpone. And before the filling was put in, the sponge was skewered and lots of lemon juice (I did lots of squeezing) and sugar syrup was drizzled over to soak through and into the sponge. Oh my!

For dinner Pete did a simple roast - a prepared chicken breast from Waitrose that has butter and seasoning added for you and cooks to the most moist and wonderful tasting finish with some gorgeous roast potatoes. We didn't bother with the greens as the cabbage in the fridge from last weeks veggie box looked rather the worse for wear and we weren't that fussed anyway since we new we were going to have the lemon cake for dessert.

Oh yummy day!