Showing posts with label travel dorset. Show all posts
Showing posts with label travel dorset. Show all posts

Sunday, 31 October 2010

Brown & Forrest: A Family Smokery in Somerset

One of the best things about travelling around Britain is the opportunity to visit high-quality, local, specialist producers and try and buy their products.

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One such producer is Brown & Forrest, a small family run smokery producing a wide range of smoked goods including eel, salmon and duck, to name just a few.

Started 29 years ago at Bowdens Farm, Hambridge, the smokery now has both a shop and on-site restaurant, where you can feast on the smoked goods before buying a selection to take home with you.

The smokery was on my list to visit during my May trip to nearby West Dorset, but having failed to do so, I was delighted when fellow food blogger Helly suggested a lunch meeting there, the day after Meemalee's Burmese Popup.

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To allow us to work out which smoked products we wanted to order for our mains, Helly arranged in advance for us to start our lunch with sharing plates featuring a variety of Brown and Forrest's smoked products including salmon, duck, chicken and eel. This was a fantastic idea and I'd recommend getting in touch to organise something similar if you're planning a trip with a group of friends.

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Mains were served with a nicely dressed side salad and garlicky potatoes. All came in under £10. Everyone ordered what they'd liked the best from the tasting plate; there were lots of happy eaters.

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Not that we had space, but we all ordered desserts. The sticky toffee and date pudding and the syrup sponge pudding were unanimously voted the winners. The queen of puddings and white chocolate desserts were also good. Only the tiramisu disappointed – a stodgy, overly cheesy and heavy lump which both who ordered it left almost untouched.

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After our lunch (which was less than £20 a head including drinks) we loaded up on goodies from the shop. Pete and I bought some smoked black pudding, smoked duck, smoked trout and smoked brie.

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Meemalee bought half the shop!

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Pete and I had some of the smoked black pudding for breakfast the next morning (along with some delicious Denhay bacon and fried eggs) and we both absolutely loved it. Soft black pudding with just the right hint of smoky flavour not to overwhelm pudding or rest of plate. Perfect!

Back home, we enjoyed the rest of our haul, impressed with the smoked brie too – again, a subtle hand meant the smokiness enhanced rather than overpowered the natural taste of the cheese.

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You can buy Brown & Forrest smoked goods through their online mail order service or, if you're in the vicinity, I strongly recommend a visit in person.

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Sunday, 4 July 2010

The Three Horseshoes, Powerstock, Dorset

It's amazing how many blog posts I've still left to write from our short trip to Dorset at the end of May. I've already blogged the foraging course around which the weekend away was arranged, our meal at Hix Oyster & Fish House, another at The Wild Garlic and even shared what we cooked with our foraged bounty.

Still to come are interviews with the lovely owners of Denhay Farm and also with Mat Follas and Terry Ireland (one of the semi-finalists in this year's Masterchef). Phew! For now, another restaurant review…

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For the third evening meal of our trip we followed local recommendations and headed to Powerstock for a meal in the Three Horseshoes pub.

I'm glad we phoned ahead to reserve a table as it's pretty small inside and it was a popular place. Much more in demand were the tables outside, but I'm a funny one about eating outdoors unless we're talking picnics…

I can no longer recall which beer Pete chose, but the fine sunny weather put me in a Pimm's frame of mind and I ordered my first of the season. Sadly, the barman seemed unfamiliar with this classic - he measured a shot of Pimm's into a glass and held the glass towards me. "Oh, noo", I responded, "it needs a lemonade mixer in it, please". That he managed but when I asked whether they might have any cucumber or strawberries or even a little fresh mint, he looked utterly bemused. I gave up and accepted my somewhat denuded Pimm's. Sadly, it was also weak and insipid – I've since learned that the standard Pimm's measure is 50 ml, whereas the barman poured only a single spirits measure (which was presumably the standard 25 ml or possibly a slightly larger 35 ml one).

Still, the sun was shining, we were on holiday, the food had been recommended and we were in fine mood regardless. The menu was chalked up above the fireplace – one of those marvellous menus where you struggle to narrow down your choice between all kinds of tempting dishes.

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As we were waiting for our starter, we were served some bread and butter.

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Having had a late lunch (at the end of the foraging course earlier that day) we decided to share a starter of wild boar and quail scotch eggs, pickles (£6). These were good, though they didn't need the extra sprinkling of sea salt over them, they were strongly salted already. Tasty meat around soft-centred eggs.

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Pete chose the cod in beer batter, triple cooked chips, chunky tartare (£11). A generous portion of crispy battered fish with a simple salad, with the chips hiding beneath the fish. Even more so than the scotch eggs, this dish suffered from over salting mostly in the batter/ fish.

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I opted for the hanger steak St George, roasted bone marrows, chips ((£18). Unfortunately, the inside of the bone marrow was fridge cold. I called someone over, explained the problem, and had the whole plate whisked away whilst I was still in the middle of a sentence asking whether they could bring a side-dish to take the marrow away so I could continue eating the rest. Oh well, at least they left my bowl of chips.

Some considerable time later, by which time Pete was virtually finished with his dish, my plate was returned. The steak was beautifully tender and juicy. The mushrooms and sauce full of flavour, the sauce having clearly been reduced down to concentrate it. Sadly, once again, the chef was far too liberal with the salt – so much so that I actually couldn't eat the sauce and scraped it off the mouthfuls I ate. The bone marrow had been tarted up with breadcrumbs to the extent that all bone marrow flavour was completely lost and all that remained was greasy, crunchy, herby breadcrumbs. You'd be forgiven for thinking the dish a complete failure based on the description so far. But, with the exception of the bone marrow, which really didn't work, it was so almost there, so nearly a very successful dish, that it actually made me feel sad. More sad than I would have had it been completely rubbish.

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So, the Three Horseshoes pub then – a food lovers destination? Possibly so, as I'm confident the main weakness could so easily be fixed.

The flavours are right, the textures are good, the ingredients are of good quality.

The cooking, in the most part, is accomplished but let down by the very heavy-handed salting – I have no idea whether that's the result of a jaded palate (which I doubt given the excellence of flavours) or failing to taste before seasoning. It's doesn't help that there seems to be an attachment to throwing an extra large pinch of sea salt over every finished dish as some kind of garnish, though the over-salting is more integrated than that – the scotch egg meat, the batter and fish, the herby bone marrow mix and the steak sauce… all were too salty and significantly so.

But service is warm and friendly, the location and feel of the place is attractive and the menu certainly appealing. I would be happy to visit again and see whether the chef is indeed worth his salt.

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Wednesday, 23 June 2010

Wild Garlic Part 2: Ramsons Flower Tempura

In Wild Garlic Part 1 I shared my first wild garlic foraging and cooking experience, using the leaves of the ramsons plant (allium ursinum) as stuffing in a roast chicken. That was at the beginning of May. Near the end of the month, Pete and I spent a lovely long weekend down in Dorset, planned around attendance on Mat Follas' foraging course.

Driving along the pretty, narrow, winding lanes of this corner of rural Dorset I was struck repeatedly by just how prolific wild garlic is there. Vast numbers blanket grassy verges in swathes of green and white. Driving with the window open means an almost constant whiff of pungent garlicky goodness. Given the abundance, it amazes me that we associate garlic with French cooking, and not with food from South West England!

During the weekend, we both enjoyed dishes based on wild garlic at Mat's restaurant, we picked and munched on fresh, raw flowers and stems during the foraging course and we inhaled it's scent during each car journey we made.

At Mark Hix's Lyme Regis Oyster & Fish House, I even had deep fried ramsons flowers in my starter, though I didn't yet know that ramsons = wild garlic and didn't make the connection.

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So much of wild garlic was there in the area that I decided to forage a big bag of it just before we returned to London. In the country corner we chose, I carefully collected a carrier bag full of flowers on their long, crunchy stems and when I turned away and back again, I couldn't even spot a gap in the thick carpet of flower heads.

Having very recently seen a recipe for elderflower tempura (and influenced by the Hix starter too) I was eager to tempura my bounty of fresh flowers.

We haven't made tempura before so checked a few recipe books and followed a very basic recipe, though next time I'll aim for a thinner batter and use carbonated water, which we didn't have in the house.

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With their long firm stems, it was easy to dip each flower head into the batter, transfer it into the hot oil and lift it out to drain afterwards.

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We enjoyed the flowers with some absolutely delicious grilled bacon from Denhay Farms, who we visited during our weekend trip. It was a perfect light meal which summed up our little trip.

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Monday, 21 June 2010

Mat Follas' Foraging Course

You might remember from my interview with him last year that Mat Follas, winner of Masterchef 2009 and chef proprietor of The Wild Garlic restaurant, came to cooking only recently. His love for cooking grew out of his love for scuba diving: just a few years ago, he found himself bringing home lots of hand-dived scallops and crab but not really making the best of them. His wife booked him onto a day's course at Rick Stein's and it all grew from there. Mat's passion for delivering great food remains inextricably tied to his determination to use locally sourced produce, a fair amount of it dived and foraged for him by small-scale local providers.

I had been wanting to go on a foraging course for a couple of years and have been looking into the many courses available for a long time. Some were simply too expensive for what they offered, others had only a few dates available per year, none of which suited and another still looked fabulous but I knew that 10+ hours is simply too long a day for me – I just don't have the stamina!

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So when Mat mentioned his new foraging days a few months ago I booked two places immediately, choosing a late May date just a few days before Pete's birthday, so we could make a long weekend of it.

For just £65 per person, the course provides two foraging walks (one in the countryside and one along the sea shore), coffee to start the day, elevenses refreshments and a fabulous lunch based around foraged ingredients. Having looked at so many courses I know that's a great deal, even more so given the quality of the food.

We started the day by meeting for coffee at the restaurant. The other attendees drifted in and we were introduced to Theo Langton who provides the restaurant with foraged ingredients and would be leading the course, alongside Mat.

Theo is an absolutely fascinating character. He's a passionate advocate of making use of the land - taking what is natural and available, in a sustainable way and living from the land as much as possible. During the summer, he and friends take to the road, and visit the many fairs and festivals around the country with their multimedia arts and craft workshop which is always very popular. Some of the group make healthy juices not just from the normal wheatgrass and carrots but from a wide range of edible, foraged herbs and plants. Theo is also involved in programmes to build community capability and resilience, encouraging communities to learn the skills that allow them to respond to power outages, snow ins, fires and other disasters and accidents quickly – living in rural areas can mean that the regular emergency services can take a little time to arrive.

So how did Theo become involved with Mat? Having grown up in a family with quite a food focus (his mother trained with Paul Bocuse) Theo did trained in cordon blue himself, learning skills that allowed him to travel the world, finding kitchen work as he went. In October, he walked into The Wild Garlic off the street, introduced himself, and asked Mat whether there was work for him in the kitchen during the winter months, when there are no festivals and fairs running – there was. It didn't take long for the mutual interest in using local and foraged produce to come up, and Theo now provides the restaurant with locally foraged ingredients during the spring and autumn months.

Due to a couple of late arrivals, we got off to a late start, but eventually we were on our way, following Theo and Mat out of the restaurant into local streets.

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Immediately, within just a few years of the restaurant, Theo was already pointing out edible plants and he and Mat would then give us ideas on how we might prepare them. It was a beautiful sunny day and lovely to be outside. The walk was at a relaxed and leisurely pace and, for the most part, us back markers were able to catch up to Theo for his excellent explanations, stories and suggestions about each plant. Often, we would stop to taste them too.

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Before too long we left the regular roads for a narrower path, passing alongside an old church graveyard and then mostly open fields. Here, there were many more plants for us to learn about.

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From the narrow path we turned into a field, tromped across that, past Theo's place and into a cool, shaded lane lined with more wild garlic than I had thought existed in the whole of England! Just before boarding the coach Mat had hired to take us back to the restaurant (and down to the beach later), we took a quick meander around a stunning glade of wild garlic, tinkling stream meandering through, dappled sun and shade…

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I munched delightedly on raw wild garlic flowers and stems - the stems were too intense for some, but I loved them… so pungent and juicy!

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We had walked for a little over an hour before we bundled aboard the coach and headed back to the restaurant for refreshments. Teas and coffees all round plus a lovely chocolate brownie – we were soon fortified ahead of our next outing.

Back aboard the Wild Garlic bus, Mat absolutely relishing his role as bus driver (apparently it's been a long-cherished fantasy of his), we drove down to Bridport beach, where a food festival was in full swing.

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For me, this second walk wasn't as successful, though I think most of the group enjoyed it. Theo strode excitedly off into the distance and I couldn't keep up. I thought it was just me, with my dodgy hips and knees but there was another couple who were further back then us. The first half of the walk didn't include any foraging so we fell some way behind, missing out on the excited chattering going on at the front. We clambered up a hill and along the coast, in front of a stunningly-situated caravan park before descending back towards sea-level.

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On a few occasions, as we neared the beach, we caught up to Theo when he'd been stopped for several minutes but we'd missed the explanation of the plant and just had time to grab a taste before he headed off again. I was able to pass on Mat's message about meeting in the car park at 2 o'clock.

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At this point, I made a big mistake. Somewhat fed up of not being able to keep up and thereby missing all the information and also worried about getting back to the car park on time when we did turn around, I decided to turn around and head back early so I wouldn't hold everyone else up. I didn't mention to Theo, as he was still on the move, walking down onto the beach itself, though did, of course, let Pete know as he stayed, quickly catching up to the group.

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I started the walk back, taking my time, snapping some photographs, enjoying the quite spectacular views (not to mention the sweet little bunny rabbits munching grass in the sunshine). When I got back, there was still no sign of the others behind me, so I popped into the festival marquee and had a nice time chatting to some of the stall holders before enjoying the most delicious home-made lemonade ever, chilled and refreshing, for just 50p a cup. I had two!

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Just as I was finishing my lemonade, Pete popped in to find me. The group had been picked up in a car park at the other end of the walk, not very much farther than where I'd left them! Oh Kavey, what a mistake you made, silly girl! Thank you so much to Mat who drove the bus back around to the original car park to collect me.

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Both walks were just over an hour long. The first was really easy, all flat terrain and at a very leisurely pace, with many, many more plants and flowers to learn about.

The second was over steeper terrain, but still perfectly doable for anyone of reasonable fitness, you certainly don't need to be super fit or anything. And whilst I didn't enjoy it (which is no one's fault but my own, as I couldn't keep up) I am sure that the rest of the group had a lovely time.

So, back to The Wild Garlic for a late lunch.

A number of tables had been pushed together so the whole group could dine together. which was really nice. We sat down and helped ourselves to some lovely bottled apple juices on the table and soft fresh bread rolls.

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The starter was a nettle, wild garlic and vegetable soup served in cute individual pans with bread. The soup summed up the morning's walk wonderfully.

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The main dish was the star of lunch for me – chicken breast wrapped in wild garlic leaves and poached was so very tender and tasty, served with savoy cabbage, new potatoes with those flavoursome leaves again and a slow-dried tomato bursting with the essence of tomato and yet without the overwhelming nature of shop-bought sun-dried tomatoes which, for me, swamp everything else on the plate.

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And for dessert, a little berry Eton mess!

After tea and coffee it was time to wrap it up, but not before Mat brought out gift bags for all of us. Not only do we now have one of these lovely mugs each but also a little packet of wild garlic seeds! Next year I shall have my own crop of this lovely plant!

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Unsurprisingly, given the incredibly reasonable price, the increasing interest in foraging and Mat's own popularity amongst food lovers, most course dates for the rest of the year are fully booked, but it may be worth asking to be added to a waiting list in case of cancellations.

You can email Theo directly if you'd like to know more about his multimedia arts and craft workshop.

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