Showing posts with label sweet. Show all posts
Showing posts with label sweet. Show all posts

Thursday, 26 January 2012

Baby Tangerines, Preserving Cuteness!

When I was sixteen I had my wisdom teeth taken out.

Explains a lot, doesn't it?

My best friend's mum gave me a brown paper bag of clementines as a 'get well soon' gesture. They were the tiniest clementines I'd ever seen, little more than an inch in diameter. I loved these adorable miniature citrus fruits and have always bought them whenever I've come across them since, which hasn't been often…

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But I looked for them last winter, and again over the last few months, and couldn't find them anywhere. Worse still, more than one fruit stall vendor looked at me like I was asking for oranges grown on Mars! Occasional sightings by friends (in non-local shops) convinced me I wasn't going crazy.

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Finally, I found these baby tangerines in my local Waitrose and had to put them in my basket. (I didn't have a choice, they were calling to me, "Eat me, Kavey, eat me!" they squeaked).

I candied them, using the same recipe I first tried for Christmas day, and made again a few days later.

No alcohol this time, just sugar, water and the little oranges. Delicious!

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These oranges are so cute, I can't resist sharing photos, even though I blogged the recipe so recently.

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Tuesday, 10 January 2012

Gooey Delicious Banana Cake (Revisited)

Charles Campion's Banana Cake is a recipe I copied across to my blog from a post that originally appeared on a food chat board, or in my general online diary, or was sent via email… or in one of the many places I shared my food experiences before I finally realised I was "stealth-blogging" and set up Kavey Eats!

It's such a good recipe I always intended to go back and add photos the next time I made it… but, although I've enjoyed making and eating it so many times since, I never have.

My talented-photographer-friend Matt Gibson made it recently and showed me his gorgeous photos. My brain started to tick tock tick tock and I discarded the plan to simply slot his photos into that old post, and asked him to guest blog it afresh instead.

Sharing the same recipe on a blog twice might be odd but Matt's lack of food processor means he's brought some new advice to the recipe, not to mention his confirmation that it's a doddle even for novice or nervous bakers.

Over to Matt:


One evening, a week before Christmas, I peered into my fruit bowl. My three remaining bananas stared forlornly back at me. Over-ripe and -- based on evidence from the two I'd already eaten -- also rather bruised underneath. What to do?

Twitter to the rescue. "Got a banana bread recipe" I asked. "Only this one I've found is American, and I have no idea how many bananas there are in two-and-one-third cups."

Auntie Kavey responded instantly, pointing me at her Charles Campion's Banana Cake page. Not only did it sound easy -- always a bonus for an inexperienced baker like me -- but it called for three medium-sized bananas, exactly what I needed to make use of.

So, I dived in, stymied briefly by the local Co-Operative supermarket having run out of both eggs *and* caster sugar (hint, Co-Op: more people than normal are probably baking stuff in the week before Christmas.)

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Another minor speed-bump in my road was the first instruction in the recipe, "Measure all ingredients straight into your food processor and whizz into smooth batter," which rather assumes you own something as fancy as a food processor. Still, at least I've got an electric whisk. Instead of boshing it all together I cubed the butter, which I figured would be the difficult-to-mix bit, and rubbed it into the sifted flour and sugar until I had a breadcrumb-like consistency. Then I added everything else, roughly mixing as I went. Finally I took up my electric whisk and zizzed the mixture to a nice smooth batter.

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And that was the hard work done, really. I poured the mix into my greased, floured loaf-tin. Pausing only briefly to check I was neither very young, very old, nor pregnant, I took my life in my hands and tasted a wooden spoon's scraping's-worth of the cake mix that had clung on in the bowl. Niiiice. So, all the signs were good.

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I popped the loaf tin straight into my pre-heated oven, did the washing-up, and went to post some "before" photos on Twitter. This is the 21st century, after all; if you've not tweeted about it, it hasn't happened.

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About forty-five minutes later I was walking past my kitchen door and had to stop and stick my head in and inhale the lovely banana-ey bready smell that was coming from the oven. Another fifteen minutes and I was pulling open the oven, crossing my fingers, and manhandling the loaf tin onto the kitchen worktop with two strategically-positioned tea towels (I know, I know. "Oven gloves" has been just above "food processor" on my kitchen equipment shopping list for about eight years now.)

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It looked good. Dark-to-golden brown, with a nice light sponginess showing through the split that had formed on the top. After a few minutes, I gently tried to slide the loaf out, but it felt a bit too wobbly and was clinging to the sides, so I tried to practise some patience and left it to cool in its tin for a while. Once it wasn't so hot, it slid out more easily, and kept its nice loaf shape as I rolled it onto the cooling rack, though the gooey bottom did sink a millimetre or so into the rack as it settled densely down.

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After my disaster with Nigella's Dense Chocolate Loaf Cake, which stayed entirely liquid in the middle when I made it, I was a little scared to finally start slicing into my banana cake, but my fears were unfounded. It was a little gooey at the bottom, but pleasantly so, and the rest was a lovely moist cake with a delicious light crust on top and at the edges (the end parts were my personal favourite.) The banana flavour was good, and I hadn't overdone the vanilla, despite my worries.

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All in all, this was a fantastic recipe, easy for the baking beginner, even if you're only armed with a £4.99 electric whisk from Argos that smells a bit like a Scalextric car when it's running. You'll never let over-ripe bananas go to waste again.

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My beginner's tips:

* "a few drops" of vanilla essence is just under a quarter of a teaspoonful.
* Wait until the loaf's cooled a bit before you try to de-tin it.
* Don't shop for cake ingredients in the Co-Op just before Christmas.


Here's the recipe again with my original notes below. ~ Kavey

Gooey Delicious Banana Cake

Ingredients
175 grams caster sugar
225 grams white self-raising flour
100 grams unsalted butter (I always use lightly salted actually)
3 tablespoons fresh milk (I used fully skimmed as that's what we buy)
2 large fresh eggs
3 medium sized, very ripe bananas
A few drops vanilla essence

Method

  • Preheat oven to 185 C (adjust down for fan ovens).
  • Measure all ingredients straight into your food processor and whizz into smooth batter.
  • Butter a large loaf tin well, then throw in some flour, tap and turn the tin to coat the flour over all surfaces and then tap out any excess into the bin/ sink.
  • Pour the batter into the tin.
  • Bake for an hour.

Note: Campion says "Because we are looking for a soggy end product, the old-faithful test of sticking in a skewer and withdrawing it clean is not appropriate. With practice you'll simply need to glance at it to tell. In the meantime, because of the style of cake we're trying to achieve, there's a wide margin of error to make things easier."

Note: If it helps, I find the cake rises delightfully and the top turns a lovely rich chocolatey brown (darker than golden brown) and also usually splits, like a lemon drizzle cake.

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All images by Matt Gibson.

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Saturday, 7 January 2012

Confit Clementines & Lemon Posset

When thinking about a suitably delicious but prepare-ahead dessert for Christmas day, lemon posset sprang immediately to mind. I first made it last January and was amazed at how quick and easy it was. After that, I took it along as my contribution to a couple of cooking clubs, and was delighted at the extremely positive feedback.

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On those occasions I served it with a single long strip of candied lime in each serving. (I stuck it upright into the little black and white espresso cups, above, but forgot to take another picture).

This time I was determined to bring one of my favourite winter citrus, the wonderful clementine, into play but I didn't think candied clementine peel would work.

At first, I thought about making a two-layered posset – lemon underneath and clementine on top. But I wasn't sure whether pouring a second layer of hot posset would cause the previously set layer below to melt and result in a messy mix.

Luckily, I found inspiration in my RSS feed when I saw a post in which blogger Atomic Shrimp preserved whole clementines in sugar syrup. Essentially, the recipe creates candied or confit clementines which are soft and yielding and break apart easily.

Knowing the preserved clementines would be tooth-achingly sweet I made the lemon posset with a little less sugar and a touch more lemon juice than usual, to balance the sweet with more sharp. My unadjusted recipe is below; drop sugar by 30-40 grams and up lemon juice by about 20 ml for a slightly sharper posset.

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The dessert went down well! Everyone enjoyed the rich, thick, silky creaminess of the posset and most also really liked the clementines. I particularly loved the way my clementine oozed thick, sweet syrup as I tore into it with my spoon and how the distinct flavour of my favourite orange citrus came through loud and clear.


Lemon Posset

In medieval times posset referred to a hot drink of milk curdled with wine or ale, often with treacle and spices added for flavour. It was considered to be a general restorative and a remedy for various illnesses. Later, in the 16th-century, posset was often made from citrus juice; cream and sugar, sometimes with the addition of egg; it sounds rather like lemon curd to me, but was apparently served as a sauce to accompany meat. These days posset most commonly refers to a cold set dessert containing cream, sugar and citrus juice, similar to a syllabub but without any wine.

Ingredients
600 ml double cream
180 g caster sugar
90 ml lemon juice

Note: I nearly always double the recipe to make twice the amount.
Note: Extra portions can wrapped in clingfilm and frozen. Defrost overnight in the fridge before serving.

Method

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  • Put the cream and caster sugar in a large saucepan (that allows for the liquid to double in volume) and bring to the boil, stirring occasionally to dissolve the sugar.

    This takes several minutes but keep a close eye, as when it reaches boiling point, it expands very fast.

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  • Reduce the heat so that the mixture doesn't boil over, but not too low as you want to allow it to bubble enthusiastically for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring regularly.

  • Remove from the heat, stir in the lemon juice and leave to settle for a few minutes.

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  • Pour into small serving dishes or cups and leave to cool. Refrigerate for a couple of hours before serving.

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Confit Clementines in Syrup

Ingredients
Approximately 750 grams whole, small clementines
500g white sugar
500ml water
Optional: 100 ml gin or other spirit

Note: AS' recipe used cloves and cinnamon in the syrup to add spiced flavours. I chose to omit these, as I wanted the pure clementine flavour to dominate.

Method

  • Prepare the clementines by washing them well, picking off the woody stalk remnants and cutting a small cross into the non-stalk side with a sharp knife. This will allow the syrup to penetrate the clementine and ensure it's fully softened and saturated all the way through. Take care not to make the crosses too large or the clementines may split during cooking. An alternative might be to prick the skin all over with a thin skewer instead, though I've not tried this yet.

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this cross is a touch on the generous side

  • Choose a pan that fits all your clementines in a single layer. Personally, I'd pick a pan that fits them all in fairly snuggly, as a smaller pan means a greater depth of syrup. My pan was a little larger.
  • Put the sugar and water into the pan over a gentle heat and stir until the sugar is full dissolved.
  • Carefully place the fruits into the syrup, to avoid splashing hot sugar syrup. I put all mine the same way up (see later).

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  • Bring the sugar syrup to the boil, and then reduce the heat to a very low simmer and cover.
  • For the next hour, continue to cook the clementines at this low temperature, returning to the pan every ten minutes or so to turn all the fruits over. By keeping mine all the same way up, I found it easier to quickly identify which ones I'd not yet turned each time, though towards the end of the cooking time, a couple of them spun around quite contrarily!

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  • Sometimes, just before turning, I gave each clementine a gentle squeeze down on the base of the pan, to squeeze a little of the juice out and encourage more syrup to take it's place, however take care as too much pressure will cause your clementines to split apart.
  • If the clementines have had enough cooking time, you should see that the skins look a little darker in colour, because they are saturated with sugar syrup. The fruits will also be fairly soft to the touch, if you squeeze them gently with a spoon.
  • If your clementines were larger than average, or the fruits don't seem to be soft, continue cooking for another half an hour, turning regularly, as before.
  • When the clementines are ready, turn off the heat and lift them carefully out of the pan with a slotted spoon and pack them into sterilised jars.
  • If you are adding alcohol, stir this into the sugar syrup now. The amount above will not give a strong alcoholic kick so increase by taste if you wish.
  • Pour the sugar syrup over the fruit in the jars to cover them completely.

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  • If there isn't enough syrup to cover the fruit, you can make more up by dissolving sugar into water.

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Having preserved enough clementines for Christmas day dessert the first time around, I made some more a few days later. These ones I stored in sterilised jam jars and kilner jars, as above. I sterilised the jars (and lids) as I usually do for jam and chutney making and put the fruit into them whilst both fruit and jars were still hot. I am assuming that the high sugar content saturating the fruit should preserve them for medium to long term storage, however if you are at all unsure, you may wish to boil the sealed jars in a hot water bath.

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My next project is to try the same technique to confit thin-skinned lemons and limes. I'll let you know how it goes!

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Wednesday, 22 September 2010

Under Pressure: Raspberry Pancakes With Vanilla Mascarpone Cream

Ages ago, I took part in one of the Masterchef Invention Test sessions at the BBC Summer Good Food Show.

Sponsored by Miele (who kindly invited me to attend) the sessions were essentially a challenge to produce a single dish in 30 minutes from a set of ingredients revealed to contestants just a few minutes ahead of the session.

There were 10 of us on stage at a time, each at our own cooking stations on a low stage, surrounded by an alarmingly large audience watching our every move (and kindly, not sniggering much when I knocked my container of utensils off the surface with a very loud clatter!)

Somewhat dulled by the unearthly time I had to leave my house to make it to the NEC in time (though not as much as my friend Meemalee, who bullied persuaded me into going in the first place) I was alternately fatalistically calm and agitatedly nervous.

The night before, that's when I really started to panic, regretting the decision to take part and worrying about making a complete and utter cock of myself. (You'd think, being me, this would be something I'd be used to by now, but actually, it never gets less embarrassing.)

I thought back to the many, many, many episodes of Masterchef I had watched and recalled my conviction that the contestants who did best in the Invention Test round were those who had a basic recipe down pat and simply had to adapt it to the ingredients on hand. After all, one could be fairly confident about basics such as flour, milk, eggs, cheese, fresh herbs, potatoes, citrus fruit, some kind of green vegetables and so on…

The trouble was that I didn't actually know any recipes off by heart, let alone any that might be feasible in the short half an hour we had available!

Desperate, I surfed the internet, looking at food blogs and recipe sites, and eventually settled on thick American-style pancakes which I could hopefully combine with some kind of fresh fruit (I'd been mentally thinking of bananas or blueberries) and hopefully serve with some whipped cream

Problem?

I've never made pancakes before. Papery-thin crêpes, yes, though not with great success. But pancakes, lovely and thick and light, no.

Still, I could think of nothing else, and hastily tried to memorise approximate amounts of flour, egg, milk plus the all-important baking soda.

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image courtesy of Forever Better, Miele

Competing in our session were my friend Meems and fellow blogger and foodie friends Jo, James, Bron and Ailbhe plus four other eager/ terrified volunteers.

Meeting and greeting fellow contestants and also Mat, Dhruv, Tim and Alex in the waiting room helped divert thoughts from the challenge to come but all too soon it was time to follow compère, Andi Peters, onto the stage…

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So what did we have to cook with?

As well as all the store cupboard basics (from flour to rice to seasonings to couscous to a whole lot more that I've long since forgotten), we had fridges full of milk, cream and eggs and then our mystery bags containing such delights as chicken, bacon, peas, celeriac, Stilton, raspberries, mascarpone, a vanilla pod.

Raspberries. Mascarpone. Vanilla Pod.

Alrighty then!

Making Pancakes

Hands shaking more than I could have imagined, I measured out my memorised volumes of flour (150 grams) and milk (150 ml), mixed them in a bowl with a medium egg and a large knob of butter and threw in a random volume of icing sugar for good measure. And a generous teaspoon of baking soda. So generous it was probably nearer to two!

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Leaving the thick batter aside to rest, rise or whatever it does I got to work on a side of vanilla mascarpone cream. I turned the mascarpone out into a bowl, and poured in some double cream to thin it out a little. Although I've seen it many times on the telly, I've never actually cut open and seeded a vanilla pod before. Doing so with shaking hands is not ideal, I can tell you. But eventually, the richly scented, sticky seeds from the entire pod went into the bowl. Next, I added some icing sugar and beat like hell. And tasted. Some more icing sugar and beat again. And a final shake and beat of sweetness and it was perfect. For my sweet tooth, anyway!

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Nerves were not helped by Mat Follas and Dhruv Baker coming by, ostensibly to help the contestants as well as taste their ongoing efforts, but in reality, enjoying the chance to tease Meems and I relentlessly!

Back to the pancakes, the batter looked good and thick with pleasing bubbles and I heated up a pan and threw in some butter. I think I may have added a little oil too, to stop the butter burning, which I usually do. But I can't remember now if I remembered then!

I poured in a generous amount of batter and grabbed the box of raspberries, planning to scatter fruits onto the uncooked top of the pancake before flipping it over.

My pancake was a little rustic – a splat rather than a nice, shapely round. But still, it looked like a pancake so far!

Aaaaaargh! More than half of the raspberries in my little punnet were mouldy! Luckily, Meemalee was cooking a delicious chicken dish so I was able to raid her box and make up a decent portion.

Raspberries were duly dropped into the pancake and I turned it over to cook the other side.

I served my pancake onto a plate and garnished with a dollop of the vanilla mascarpone cream, doing my best to make a neat quenelle but accepting that a blob was all I could manage.

This left me with a few minutes to spare so I decided to cook a second pancake, trying for a rounder shape. Success! Still not a particularly neat or dainty job, but it did look marginally better, so I plated up a second time, added a generous blob of vanilla mascarpone cream and a sprig of mint to garnish.

Dr Tim Kinnaird, standing on the side lines and heckling the two of us with evil calls and cackles (I was better able to tune it out than Meems, stationed nearest the side of the stage), demanded a taste and I took the first plate over to him and Sarah (of Brays Cottage, maker of perfect pork pies). To my surprise, the entire lot was speedily polished off by Tim, Sarah and other audience members!

All too soon, time was up.

We were given glasses of bubbly. I don't like bubbly. I don't drink bubbly. But I necked it!

Judgment Day

Dhruv and Mat were asked to choose three finalists whose dishes they felt should be presented to John Torode and Gregg Wallace for final judging.

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image courtesy of Forever Better, Miele

To my shock, my name was called and I walked to the front in a daze.

When my turn came, I took my dish across to John and Gregg who dived in.

Andi Peters referred to my earlier comment (made when the camera man came over and asked a few questions during the cooking time) that I'd not cooked pancakes before… and I realised how often I'd shouted at the telly when contestants cooked something they'd never tried before. Not clever, eh?

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image courtesy of Forever Better, Miele

And then Andi asked Gregg for his thoughts.

"I tell you what, I have seen more attractive pancakes, but rarely have I tasted anything that delicious this time of the morning. Your balance of sweetness there, and vanilla, is absolutely right. You've got to somehow get some prettiness into your food but that tastes great. I'd quite happily finish that. In fact, I might!"

And John?

"Rich mascarpone, huge amounts of vanilla, sweet sugar and going with really nicely made pancakes with those sour raspberries running through the middle of it. Really, really well done! And as Gregg said make it more attractive, make them little and then just stack them up, do 5 or 6 of them all stacked up together and that's it, it would have been perfect!"

Gregg: "But that looks really heavy and actually that's as light as a feather…"

Andi: "It's delicious is what it is, it's lovely, very very nice!"

Gregg: "It's great isn't it? If you can make your food look as good as it tastes…"

Coo!

And suddenly I understood why some contestants become so emotional when they hear John and Gregg's words of praise about their cooking. It's an incredible high, it really is!

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More shocking still, I was pronounced the winner of our session and, after John did a strange birdlike dance welcoming me back to the central station, I was presented with a certificate which John and Gregg signed.

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image courtesy of Meemalee's Kitchen

And and and! I got a goodie bag as a prize!

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image courtesy of Meemalee's Kitchen

John disappeared back to the green room almost immediately (and Andi Peters seemed to show no interest in the contestants the second the session was over). Gregg proved himself the friendliest of the lot and chatted and posed for photos with the contestants.

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image courtesy of Forever Better, Miele

And Onwards

During the rest of the day, Meems and I enjoyed a picnic lunch of Sarah's rather perfect pork pies with some cider Mat brought along, had a very brief wander around the show, sat in the front row for a cook-off between Mat and Dhruv, met Olly Smith in the green room (during which I told him all about my trips to Antarctica to visit penguins and extracted his promise to share some Pingu scripts with us, now added to his website) and had another session on that rather public stage, this time trying to keep up during a cook-along with Barney Desmazery from BBC Good Food Magazine.

And I had my 15 minutes of fame – whilst Meems and I were walking around the show, a number of people congratulated me, having been in the audience and in the Ladies too! Surreal!

I had a great day, thanks to Forever Better, Miele for inviting me and to Meems for pushing me into going!

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Me with Alex, Dhruv, Mat and Tim (feeding me Sarah's pork pie, for some completely incomprehensible reason)

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Meems and I, with some strange Cake Doctor between us…

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contestants at the Miele stand - image courtesy of Forever Better, Miele

You can read other posts on the day here:

Jo's Kitchen (check out the great videos of the session, particularly the second one in which you can hear all those lovely comments about my pancakes from Gregg, John and Andi)
Meemalee's Kitchen
Simply Splendiferous
Eat The Midlands

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