Tuesday, 29 June 2010

Doubtless God could have made a better berry, but doubtless God never did

I love strawberry picking.

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It's one of those quintessential childhood memories – piling into the car with family and friends, tumbling out in a screeching gaggle, excited to see row after row after row of beautiful strawberry plants, scalloped green leaves revealing lush, red berries… spreading out across a few rows, mums together, kids finding their own corner… everyone laughing, chatting, giggling and picking fruit… competing over who's picking the biggest berries or who is the fastest to fill their punnet… and later, smeared in sticky juices, making our tired but happy way back home again clutching our precious baskets of fruit.

And then, over the next day or two, helping my mum make the most delicious strawberry jam from the fruits of our fun. (I couldn't bring myself to call it a labour!)

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At university too, there was a pick-your-own farm just down the road from the campus. Better still, they had an honesty system – when you took your strawberries to the till to be weighed and paid for, a small note asked you to make a guestimate and contribute towards the berries you'd eaten whilst you picked. I loved that, as it meant I didn't feel guilty about popping berries as I picked … I'd even be willing to bet that most pickers over- rather than under-estimated their consumption.

I have picked strawberries now and again, in the intervening years, but must confess that back, hip and knee problems make crouching and crab-walking along the ground difficult to manage for more than a few minutes at a time.

Last year, just too late for the strawberry season, I came across a recommendation for Parkside Farm in Enfield. Mention of their table-top strawberry system appealed hugely and I bookmarked the site, checking on it regularly these last few weeks, waiting impatiently for the strawberry season to arrive.

Finally, on the last Saturday in June, off we went… me bubbling with excitement, just as I had when I was a child. The farm was busy; families with kids of all ages playing hide and seek between the rows, an elderly couple taking their time to select only the most perfect fruits, four middle aged friends striding purposefully from the entrance, people of all ages, speaking many different languages but sharing the delight of picking one's own…

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So, what about the table-top system? What can I tell you? I'm an absolute convert! Strolling comfortably along the rows of waist-height troughs of healthy plants, their ruby red fruit hanging so easily in reach, takes away the pain but without losing any of the pleasure I remember so fondly.

(Pete, being 6 foot 6 inches tall, still has to slouch just a little, but for the rest of us, the strawberries are at just the right height).

What did I do with our 4 kilo harvest? Strawberry jam, strawberry ice-cream, strawberry vodka and, of course, fresh strawberries and cream!

The quote in the title, by the way, is by William Allen Butler, a 19th Century American lawyer, poetical satirist and travel writer.

Win a Soreen T-Shirt

Are you a little bit, or maybe a whole lot of a bit, addicted to Soreen's fruity malt loaf?

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If you'd like to win this sweet Soreen T-shirt to wear to your next session of the SAA (Soreen Addicts Anonymous) or perhaps as a gift to the lady Soreen addict in your life, why not leave me a comment below letting me know about your food and drink addictions, Soreen or otherwise?

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I'll pick a winner from all comments left before July 15th 2010.

The T-shirt is a Fruit Of The Loom, Lady Fit Large. The competition is open to UK residents only.

Monday, 28 June 2010

Guest Post: Alex English Visits Morston Hall

Once a fellow food blogger, now in the ranks of professional food writers, stylists and cooks, my friend Alex English has kindly written a guest post for Kavey Eats. Enjoy!


After an exhausting five weeks training at Ashburton Cookery School, the husband (who I'd hardly seen for over a month) and I decided that a break in the country would be perfect for a bit of rest & relaxation. There's something special about country house hotels. Secluded, discreet, and utterly, utterly relaxing, they're the perfect place to unwind if you're short on time (and, er, fairly long on cash). Morston Hall is no exception. I've been a fan of Galton Blackiston for a while, and his North Norfolk bolthole with Michelin starred restaurant has been on my most-wanted list for some time.

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Saturday, 26 June 2010

See Food & Eat: Abel & Cole Fish + The Billingsgate Market Cookbook

As regular readers know, I've reviewed a number of products from Abel & Cole over the last year, from fruit and vegetables to dried fruits and nuts to chicken, beef and lamb. Most recently, I was invited to review some of their fresh fish produce, which was perfect timing after our recent day at the Billingsgate Seafood Training School.

Although most of us still associate them with organic fruit and veg, Abel and Cole also offer a great range of fish, from haddock, pollock and whiting to sardines and mackerel to salmon and trout to more specialist fish such as john dory, lemon sole, sea bass and guilt head bream. And then there are the various smoked fish and fish cakes not to mention the crab, scallops and squid.

Here's what I was sent and how I found it:

  • Cornish Pan-Ready Mackerel (390 grams, £3.89, £9.97 per kg)
  • Flaky Roast Smoked Salmon (160 grams, £5.75)
  • Monkfish Fillets (375 grams, £13.92, £37.11 per kg)
  • Sea Bass Fillets (£12.15)
  • Seafood and Eat it White Cornish Crab (100 grams, £4.99)

Cornish Pan-Ready Mackerel

Sold in pack sizes of approximately 350 grams (ours was just over) and priced at £9.97 per kilo mackerel really are a great value fish for every day eating.

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For us, the pack of three smallish fish was awkward – we cook for two and 3 fish on the bone aren't well-suited dividing between two people! I understand Abel & Cole have reviewed all their pack sizes recently, but it's the pack size alone that would stop me ordering this again.


The The Billingsgate Market Cookbook is currently available from Amazon for £11.89, usual retail price £20.

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Les Peches Plates

The first time I came across "les pêches plates" (flat peaches) was in France but I've since come across them here in the UK, now and then.

They are also known as doughnut (or donut), Saturn and even UFO peaches!


I bought these tasty beauties at the local newsagent/ grocer at the top of my road on Thursday!

Friday, 25 June 2010

Pete Drinks: Fuller's 2004 Vintage Ale



Name: Fuller's 2004 Vintage Ale

ABV: 8.5%

Bottled/ Draft: Bottled

Bottle Conditioned: Yes

Bottle Size: 500 ml

Price: Approximately £5

Colour: Rich Brown

Clarity: Like a muddy pond

Head/ Bubbles: Surprisingly good head for a bottle beer, with fine bubbles

Mouthfeel: On the thicker side

Taste: Not very hoppy, a syrupy sweet maltiness, just a touch of bitterness towards the end. A slight warmth to the taste (like pepper or spices but without those flavours). Can tell it's a strong beer, but it doesn't taste as strong as some with similar ABV. A nice note of bitterness in the aftertaste.

Comment: This is not a beer you'd want a pint of - it's a little too strong. As such, it's not really an every day beer. But it's a great choice for a special occasion, or where you're looking for a beer to relish and take your time drinking.

Additional Info: Fuller's Vintage Ales are crafted by their head brewer, John Keeling. Since 1997, he has carefully selected and blended malt, hops and yeast for this annual, limited edition beer. Because the beer is bottle conditioned, the yeast left in the bottle matures and changes the beer slowly over time. The 2004 vintage uses Goldings hops and Maris Otter malt.

The best place to buy a range of those vintages still available is the brewery's on-site shop in Chiswick.


Introducing Kavey Eats, Pete Drinks

Pete is definitely the drinker in our household.

I don't drink much, myself. Not that I'm against drinking, or even worried about it from a health perspective. It's just that I don't like beer. Or wine (with the exception of the very sweet stuff). I do like some drinks of course - dessert wine for a start, or a glass of syrupy PX; a refreshing Pimms is an essential part of summer; I can't resist sweet, colourful cocktails - an umbrella and maraschino cherry make them even better; and I'm quite a fan of sickly sweet liqueurs from Amaretto to Amarula , from Midori to Tia Maria. Oh, and vodka, I quite like that too, especially the vintage Russian stuff I’ve recently been introduced to. But a distaste for beer and normal wine (as opposed to the sweet stuff) means that I seldom drink during meals and have become quite used to sticking to the softies. To be fair, this isn't a big deal, I drank so much as a student it's a wonder my brain survived - though there are those who might argue it didn't, entirely! This goes some way to explaining why this blog has been all about the eating.

So back to Pete.

He very much enjoys red wine, has a big soft spot for Scottish malt whisky, especially from Islay, and he loves a good beer - especially real ales (he's a member of CAMRA). For ages, he's been muttering about blogging some of the beers he's been drinking. Being realistic, he admits he'd never maintain a blog of his own but I've suggested he provide guest posts for me here on Kavey Eats and he’s agreed.

And so, I'd like to introduce a new series on Kavey Eats which will appear under the heading "Pete Drinks".

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Pete will be sharing his feedback on a wide range of beers from all around the world. I suspect a few wines and whiskies may also creep into the mix too!

These posts will appear in the main Kavey Eats RSS feed.

Thursday, 24 June 2010

Natoora Fruit and Veg Box

Some time back I was offered Natoora's Spring Box for review.

(I know this post is a little late, given that the box arrived in late May, but it took us a little time to use the contents and also coincided with a really busy period for me, food blogging wise, with lots and lots and lots of restaurant reviews, events, cookery book reviews and more to write and post!)

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I have to say that we were genuinely shocked when the box arrived. We really couldn't believe the huge volume of packaging for the small selection of fruit and vegetables inside! I knew they would be using a courier for delivery, rather than their own distribution network, as we fall outside the area they currently cover themselves. But still, we were taken aback. I went back to Natoora and asked them about it as we do try to reduce the amount of waste we produce, as a household.

They replied:

For London deliveries where we use our own drivers and vans and have more control we use simple brown paper bags. For deliveries by courier as you rightly presumed, we need to protect the produce more. We have tried to reach a middle ground between being able to keep the products fresh and intact whilst in transit and using the minimum amount of packaging. The components of the inflated liner and the ice packs make sure that the produce is kept fresh. The liner can be deflated and put in the bin and the cardboard box recycled. We decided on the liner because…

  • In production just 4% of the raw materials are required for the liner versus the equivalent Styrofoam packaging that would be needed to send your order
  • Before inflating the freight and warehouse space required for the liner is just 10% of that required for Styrofoam
  • Landfill is significantly reduced

Well, OK.

But I'm still keener on the packaging used by some of their competitors. For example, Abel and Cole use (much smaller) cardboard boxes for their fruit and veg (and styrofoam boxes for meat, fish and dairy) but, more importantly, they encourage customers to return boxes from previous deliveries to their delivery drivers when they drop off the next box, and they re-use the packaging as many times as possible before it disintegrates. Whilst I can see that their styrofoam boxes require more initial warehouse space, I also like how they are used many times, before being relegated to waste.

Being economical (both financially and environmentally) about waste doesn't just refer to reducing the volume and ensuring the materials are recyclable – it also means making the best use of packaging and insulation in the first place, before discarding it as rubbish.

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Anyway, on to the contents of the selection box. I found them a little variable.

  • The strawberries and potatoes were excellent. Proper, wonderfully flavoursome strawberries, the very best of what this fruit can be. Decent, fresh and tasty new potatoes too.
  • The tomatoes ripened well on the windowsill and they too were then a good example of this quintessential salad fruit.
  • Many of the pea pods contained grossly underdeveloped peas, which meant that the overall volume, once the entire bag was podded, was a very small serving indeed. But those we had were good enough.
  • The asparagus was disappointingly woody, though apparently other reviewers sent boxes within the same 2-3 week period enjoyed theirs much more.
  • The loquat were somewhat battered but I enjoyed them, having never tasted this fruit before.
  • I passed the green leaves on to my mum, as we were running out of time to eat them, before they were past their best.
  • I'm afraid I had no idea what the sticky stalked greens were as there was no information included within the box whatsoever. Natoora responded that most customers would already have read the full list of contents on the website before buying, but I still think a single sheet listing the contents would be useful. Apparently the sticky green things were bruscandoli (wild hops).

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Whilst the spring box is no longer available, Natoora are offering a fruit box, a vegetable box and a mixed fruit and veg box. If you're a Londoner, in the area they currently deliver to themselves, it may be worth giving them a go – if you do, please let me know how you get on both in terms of quality of produce and volume of packaging!

Wednesday, 23 June 2010

Wild Garlic Part 2: Ramsons Flower Tempura

In Wild Garlic Part 1 I shared my first wild garlic foraging and cooking experience, using the leaves of the ramsons plant (allium ursinum) as stuffing in a roast chicken. That was at the beginning of May. Near the end of the month, Pete and I spent a lovely long weekend down in Dorset, planned around attendance on Mat Follas' foraging course.

Driving along the pretty, narrow, winding lanes of this corner of rural Dorset I was struck repeatedly by just how prolific wild garlic is there. Vast numbers blanket grassy verges in swathes of green and white. Driving with the window open means an almost constant whiff of pungent garlicky goodness. Given the abundance, it amazes me that we associate garlic with French cooking, and not with food from South West England!

During the weekend, we both enjoyed dishes based on wild garlic at Mat's restaurant, we picked and munched on fresh, raw flowers and stems during the foraging course and we inhaled it's scent during each car journey we made.

At Mark Hix's Lyme Regis Oyster & Fish House, I even had deep fried ramsons flowers in my starter, though I didn't yet know that ramsons = wild garlic and didn't make the connection.

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So much of wild garlic was there in the area that I decided to forage a big bag of it just before we returned to London. In the country corner we chose, I carefully collected a carrier bag full of flowers on their long, crunchy stems and when I turned away and back again, I couldn't even spot a gap in the thick carpet of flower heads.

Having very recently seen a recipe for elderflower tempura (and influenced by the Hix starter too) I was eager to tempura my bounty of fresh flowers.

We haven't made tempura before so checked a few recipe books and followed a very basic recipe, though next time I'll aim for a thinner batter and use carbonated water, which we didn't have in the house.

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With their long firm stems, it was easy to dip each flower head into the batter, transfer it into the hot oil and lift it out to drain afterwards.

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We enjoyed the flowers with some absolutely delicious grilled bacon from Denhay Farms, who we visited during our weekend trip. It was a perfect light meal which summed up our little trip.

Monday, 21 June 2010

Mat Follas' Foraging Course

You might remember from my interview with him last year that Mat Follas, winner of Masterchef 2009 and chef proprietor of The Wild Garlic restaurant, came to cooking only recently. His love for cooking grew out of his love for scuba diving: just a few years ago, he found himself bringing home lots of hand-dived scallops and crab but not really making the best of them. His wife booked him onto a day's course at Rick Stein's and it all grew from there. Mat's passion for delivering great food remains inextricably tied to his determination to use locally sourced produce, a fair amount of it dived and foraged for him by small-scale local providers.

I had been wanting to go on a foraging course for a couple of years and have been looking into the many courses available for a long time. Some were simply too expensive for what they offered, others had only a few dates available per year, none of which suited and another still looked fabulous but I knew that 10+ hours is simply too long a day for me – I just don't have the stamina!

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So when Mat mentioned his new foraging days a few months ago I booked two places immediately, choosing a late May date just a few days before Pete's birthday, so we could make a long weekend of it.

For just £65 per person, the course provides two foraging walks (one in the countryside and one along the sea shore), coffee to start the day, elevenses refreshments and a fabulous lunch based around foraged ingredients. Having looked at so many courses I know that's a great deal, even more so given the quality of the food.

We started the day by meeting for coffee at the restaurant. The other attendees drifted in and we were introduced to Theo Langton who provides the restaurant with foraged ingredients and would be leading the course, alongside Mat.

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